The Fare: Savory and sweet doughnuts.
The Stop: Lucky Devil Doughnut Co. is one of the newest trucks to hit the town. This food on wheels business pulls on the heart strings as it is a family affair with co-owner Josh Goldman and his mom collectively working the truck. Josh’s brother Gabe, a graphic artist and a co-owner, designed the shiny red beast and it’s a looker, especially set against the backdrop of a busy industrial thoroughfare in the Georgetown area on Corson and South Michigan Street.
The savory items are the first to sell out, which isn’t a shocker given the high male population in the area. After all, you don’t generally see a lot of women hitting up the harbor tool freight store at 1pm on a Thursday.
Many doughnut hoarders approached the truck by ordering a box of a dozen doughnuts instead of going for a single.On one visit, a group of six guys came and cleaned out the truck’s stash of “surfers”: a two doughnut gut-bombing sandwich loaded with eggs and a slab of spam.
It is worth a trip just to smile at Lucky’s names. Take for instance, the Marie Antoinette, a custard filled round with powdered sugar. The Fools Gold will satiate a childhood love of PB & Js. It is a big ol’ bar filled with grape jelly, peanut butter and bacon.
The real stars are the POG and the budget-friendly priced $1 malasadas. A malasada is a fried round Portugeuse treat a little larger than a doughnut hole that is common in Hawaii, where Goldman lived for 10 years.
The POG, an orange-filled doughnut with passion fruit and guava frosting, is the most refreshing fried solid ever to slip through my pie hole. It is almost mystifying with its nail polish pink gloss. Custard doughnut haters beware. Biting into the POG injects your mouth with a cold, creamy blast.
If you are a purist, go for one of the basic flavors: chocolate, vanilla, sugar, maple and plain.
Each doughnut is made-to-order so expect to wait a few minutes for your treat.
Tip: The varieties that contain bacon sell out fast as Seattle’s love of bacon rages on.
First published in Seattle Weekly’s Voracious on May 22, 2012.