Review: Stopsky’s Delicatessen

Is there good Jewish food in Seattle?  I am skeptical as I haven’t had a good reuben or potato latke since my days in Washington, DC.
Nevertheless, I venture to Mercer Island with my Jewish friend to see what the hype is all about in regards to Stopsky’s, a month-old Jewish restaurant and deli named after the owner’s grandfather who immigrated to America from Kiev, Ukraine.
After pulling into a non-descript strip mall and walking into the delicatessen, it is clear I am no longer in Seattle proper anymore.
Designer sweat suits, strollers, retirees and all sorts of local Mercer Islanders fill the booths and the deli line.  I am starting to feel entirely out of place when I spot two guys dressed in hoodies/shorts and sneakers.  Ok, phew.
The layout – industrial beams and concrete floors with old family photos lining one side of the wall – make the place feel cozy yet modern. There are many seating options:  Counter seats in the front overlooking the strip mall parking lot, counters in the back facing into the kitchen, benches along the wall, and cushy patio seats outside.
The deli line is situated on the left with restaurant dining on the right, separated by a wooden wall that is high enough to give diners some privacy, but low enough so the place still feels really open.

Giant knishes, smoked whitefish salad, kugels and more in the glass display case

Although there is an overwhelming list of tasty-sounding options on the menu, my buddy and I decide to go with the Jewish classics as a gauge for determining how much we are going to like this place.
The waitress insists we need to try the sweet potato fries. My buddy inquires, “But is it Jewish?” She says no, but says they are delicious.  We acquiesce.
Here is a rundown of what we  consumed, in order of how much I liked it:
  • Potato Latke - Superbly made with a thin outer layer of crispiness and the opposite of mushy on the inside;  served with a homemade tasting apple sauce on the side (no Mott’s here).
  • Latkes benedict with pastrami – Everyone is talking about the reuben, but I think pastrami is where it’s at (especially when you upgrade to the waygu beef).  The pastrami is tender with a smoky meat flavor, and when mixed with hollandaise, poached egg, and latke, this makes for crafting the perfect decadent bites.
  • Matzoh ball soup: I know there are various schools of thought on what makes the perfect matzoh ball – Airy vs. dense.  This matzoh ball rendition is on the dense side, yet paired with fresh veggies and a light yet flavorful broth, my friend and I fall are enamored with this soup.
    Stopsky’s just updated their matzoh ball recipe last week after feedback from customers.  If you are not a fan, you have a chance to make a difference.  The delicatessen is sponsoring a community event where you can submit your matzoh ball recipe and the winner’s recipe could end up on the menu.
  • Sweet potato fries – I know these potato goodies are fried, but they taste so light I am starting to believe their fries are a health food.
  • Robin’s reuben – Named after head chef Robin Leventhal (contestant on the sixth season of Top Chef), the reuben had a nice flavor, but the meat was a tad bit on the dry side.  I would pick the pastrami over the reuben any day.
Note:  Unless you are famished, you and an eating companion could probably order two dishes and a side and satiate your bellies.

Matzoh ball soup with chicken and veggies

      After eating rich food, Stopsky’s has got your back.  Order a cup of

Stumptown

      coffee to help you keep your eyes open.
On the way out, I make my way over to the deli side and immediately do a double-take as I see monstrous knishes and a respectable assortment of challah, brownies, and other baked goods.  I grab a veggie knish and poppyseed hammantashen for the road for the drive back over the 90 bridge.

Hammantashen - A triangular shaped cookie filled with jam and generally served during the Jewish holiday of Purim

I will be back soon to try the souffléed pancakes, prepared dutch-baby style with caramalized apples, cardamom whipped cream and maple syrup.
Stopsky’s
3016 78th Ave. SE
Mercer Island, WA 98040
Hours
7am-3pm everyday

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2 Responses to “Review: Stopsky’s Delicatessen”

  1. Riky
    November 16, 2011 at 9:38 am #

    This makes me happier than you can possibly know :) Can’t wait to try it!

    • Jen (Roll with Jen)
      November 17, 2011 at 2:29 pm #

      Riky – I would love to hear your report on the place. Happy eating.

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